Commander’s Palace Restaurant

As a born and bred Georgian quite accustomed to the often laborious/tedious rules of southern etiquette and decorum, I am not sure what to expect upon hearing that I must to be in “dress code” to attend brunch at Commander’s Palace. Charming, eloquent and impecca

bly dressed in a crisp white suit, Ms. Lally Brennen warmly welcomes me at the door and introduces me to the space and its history. Ms. Brennen, whose family has owned Commander’s Palace for over 120 years, is testament to the fact that

southern hospitality is not a myth. Listening to her stories, I am pleasantly surprised to discover that there is absolutely nothing stuffy or pretentious about the restaurant, its clientele or its staff. Rather, the Brennen family has devoted its time and spirit to establishing Commander’s Palace as a place that fosters a sense of family and celebrates the unique culinary and social culture of New Orleans. The restaurant features the finest in southern dining with dishes ranging from traditional steak and eggs to more experimental plates such as Parmesan oysters. Executive Chef Tory leads a team of master chefs who pride themselves in creating authentic New Orleans dishes with a splash of culinary character that pleases both the eye and the taste buds. From firsthand experience, I can guarantee you that Commander’s Palace more than lives up to its stellar

reputation.

After a sampling of Chef Tory’s delicacies, I meet Joe Simon, master jazz musician and close friend of the Brennan family. Commander’s Palace is host to the 75 year old jazz brunch tradition, which Mr. Simon has organized for the past forty years. Led by Mr. Simon himself, the musicians create a lively environment, directly engaging with the patrons and inviting them to clap and sing along while they enjoy their Sunday morning brunch. Despite recent health troubles, Mr. Simon is full of energy as he speaks passionately about the jazz brunch, the sense of community that it engenders and the tireless commitment of the Brennan family. With Mr. Simon’s exalting gift music ringing in my ears, I am whisked away to the bar where I soon learn that the Commander’s Palace bartenders are quite skilled at mixing the Sazerac, a traditional New Orleans cocktail. As I take my first sip, Ms. Brennan offers the following advice, courtesy of her ancestor Ella Brennan: “Do have just one (Sazerac) because you won’t be nearly as attractive as you think you are after two.” Despite the tasty temptation, I decide that it is a good idea to heed her advice!

Like many businesses and homes in the Garden District, Commander’s Palace was primarily affected by the tornadoes that blew through the city after Katrina. Through both physical labor and financial investment, Ms. Brennan and her family spent thirteen months restoring the building. When I ask her whether she had doubts that the restaurant could be rebuilt, Ms. Brennan smiles with persistent determination as she declares that closing the restaurant was never an option. It was going to reopen no matter how long it took. “I’ve seen parents come for baby showers and later that child coming for her own when she’s an adult. People grow up here. [Commander's Palace] is more than just a nice place to have dinner. Its a part of people’s lives, people’s histories.”